by Maria Goody
The Salt PBS originally published June 30, 2013
Being "born with a silver spoon in your mouth" has long been known to
have advantages. Apparently, eating off a silver spoon also has its
perks — it seems to make your food taste better.
That's the
word from a group of researchers who've been studying how cutlery,
dishes and other inedible accoutrements to a meal can alter our
perceptions of taste. Their , published in the journal
Flavour,
looks at how spoons, knives and other utensils we put in our mouths can
provide their own kind of "mental seasoning" for a meal.
"Some
of my wine-drinking colleagues would have me believe that flavor is
really out there on the bottle, in the glass or on the plate," says , a
professor of experimental psychology at Oxford University. "But I think
it is much more something that we ... understand better through looking
at what's happening inside the brain, and not just the mouth of the
person eating or drinking."
Alterations in taste perceptions
aren't necessarily the result of the cutlery itself, he says, but of the
mental associations we bring to a meal. "Silver spoons and other silver
cutlery, I'm guessing, are more commonly associated with high-quality
food in our prior eating experiences," Spence says.
In recent
years, psychologists have found that the color and shape of plates and
other dishes can have an impact on the eating experience. Studies have
found, for example, that people tend to eat less when their dishes are
in sharp , that the can alter a drinker's perception of how sweet and aromatic hot cocoa is, and that drinks can when consumed from a glass with a "cold" color like blue.
So why study cutlery? For starters, there wasn't any real scientific literature on the topic, Spence tells Linda Wertheimer on
Weekend Edition Sunday.
Or, as he put it to The Salt, cutlery is "one of the few things we
stick in our mouth that others have stuck in their mouths. So it's a
peculiar thing."
Among Spence's findings so far:
- People
will rate the very same yogurt 15 percent tastier and more expensive
when sampled with a silver spoon rather than a plastic spoon or a
lighter (by weight) option.
- Combining a heavier bowl with a heavier spoon will tend to make yogurt taste better.
- Plastic packaging or plate ware that's more rounded will tend to emphasize sweetness.
- Angular
plates tend to bring out the bitterness in food, which works well for
dishes like dark chocolate or coffee-based desserts, Spence says.
- People will rate cheeses as tasting saltier when eaten off a knife, compared to a toothpick, spoon or fork.
- In
general, foods tend to be perceived as more enjoyable when eaten off
heavier plates and with heavier cutlery – perhaps because heft is
equated with expense.
Such research isn't merely
academic, Spence says. Food companies use these kinds of studies to
inform how they package their products. And in a world where modernist
chefs already pay lots of attention to how foods are arranged visually
on the plate, cutlery, he suggests, presents a new frontier for fine
dining.
Spence has already teamed up with some of the world's
top modernist chefs, using their restaurants as real-world settings to
test findings from the lab. Working with Ferran Adria, the culinary
superstar behind Barcelona's now-shuttered El Bulli, Spence tells us, he
learned that strawberry mousse tastes "10 percent sweeter and 15
percent more flavorful on a white plate than on a black plate."
And this summer, Spence says, he'll explore how ridged spoons impact the dining experience at , the restaurant run by British celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal. A previous collaboration between the two resulted in ,
in which diners eat oysters and other seafood while listening to an
iPod playing the sounds of crashing waves. It's become a signature dish
on Fat Duck's tasting menu.
"Maybe in a year or two," Spence tells The Salt, "we will have signature cutlery associated with this chef or that."